Paneling a wall with boards
Tongue-and-groove boards lock into each other along their edges; shiplap boards overlap with a rabbeted edge. Both are measured by their face width, the part that stays visible once the boards are fitted, which is narrower than the board’s nominal size. A 1×6 tongue-and-groove board, for example, is about 5.5 inches wide and shows about 5.25 inches.
The calculation
- Net wall area = length × height − openings.
- Coverage per board = face width × board length.
- Boards = net area × (1 + waste) ÷ coverage per board, rounded up.
- Furring strips: rows spaced at the chosen distance (16 in on center is common), running across the boards.
- Fasteners: one nail or clip per board at each furring strip.
Example
A 12 × 8 ft wall (96 sq ft) in 1×6 boards with a 5.25 in face and 8 ft length: each board covers 5.25 ÷ 12 × 8 = 3.5 sq ft. With 10% waste, you need 96 × 1.1 ÷ 3.5 = 31 boards. Vertical boards need horizontal furring every 16 in: 7 rows of 12 ft, or 84 linear feet, and about 217 nails.
| Nominal board | Typical face width |
|---|---|
| 1×4 | 3.25 in |
| 1×6 | 5.25 in |
| 1×8 | 7 in |
| Shiplap 1×8 | 6.75 to 7 in |
Direction and furring
- Vertical boards make a ceiling look higher; they need horizontal furring or blocking.
- Horizontal boards make a room look wider and can often be nailed directly to studs at 16 in on center.
- Over drywall, construction adhesive and finish nails into studs are often enough for thin planks.
Tips
- Let solid wood acclimate in the room for several days before installing.
- Blind-nail through the tongue so that the next board hides the nail.
- Leave a small gap at the floor and ceiling for seasonal movement, covered by trim.
- Add 15% waste for diagonal patterns or many openings.