A pattern drawn with a compass
A circle skirt is one of the easiest garments to draft: no pattern pieces, just two circles. The inner circle fits the waist; the outer circle sets the length and the hem. A full circle skirt has the most flare and swing, a half circle is fuller than an A-line, and a quarter circle gives a gentle flare with the least fabric.
The math
The inner circle’s circumference must equal your waist measurement, spread over the fraction of the circle you use:
- full circle: waist radius = waist ÷ 2π
- half circle: waist radius = waist ÷ π
- quarter circle: waist radius = waist ÷ (π / 2)
The waist cutting line is one seam allowance closer to the center, so that the stitching line falls exactly on the radius. The outer radius is the waist radius plus the finished length plus the hem allowance.
Worked example
With a 28-inch waist and a 22-inch finished length, a full circle skirt has a waist radius of 28 ÷ 6.28 = 4.46 inches. With a ⅝-inch seam allowance, cut the waist at 3.83 inches from the center. The outer radius, with a 1-inch hem, is 4.46 + 22 + 1 = 27.5 inches, so you need a square of fabric about 55 inches on each side. The finished hem is about 166 inches around, over 4 meters of ruffle-like swing.
Cutting out
- Fold the fabric in four, so you have a corner with two folds.
- From the folded corner, measure the waist radius at many points and mark a quarter circle.
- Do the same for the outer radius.
- Cut along both lines. Unfolded, you get a full circle with a hole in the middle.
If the fabric is narrower than twice the outer radius, cut two half circles, or four quarter circles, and join them with side seams. That is also the way to place a zipper.
Finishing
Stay-stitch the waist right after cutting, because the curved edge stretches. Hang the skirt for at least 24 hours so the bias sections can drop, then level the hem with a ruler from the floor. A narrow rolled hem or bias binding handles the long curved edge best. Add a waistband or an elastic casing, and a 7 to 9-inch zipper in a side seam if the waistband is not elastic.