What tempering does
Melted chocolate that simply cools down sets soft, dull and streaked with gray. The reason is cocoa butter: its fat can crystallize in six different forms, and only one of them, form V, gives a glossy surface, a clean snap and the slight shrinkage that lets chocolate release from a mold. Tempering is a controlled heating and cooling routine that melts every crystal, then lets mostly form V crystals grow.
The temperature curve
| Chocolate | Melt to | Cool to (tabling) | Working temperature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dark | 113 to 122 °F (45 to 50 °C) | 81 to 82 °F (27 to 28 °C) | 88 to 90 °F (31 to 32 °C) |
| Milk | 104 to 113 °F (40 to 45 °C) | 79 to 81 °F (26 to 27 °C) | 84 to 86 °F (29 to 30 °C) |
| White | 104 to 113 °F (40 to 45 °C) | 77 to 79 °F (25 to 26 °C) | 82 to 84 °F (28 to 29 °C) |
These are typical values. Many manufacturers print a tempering curve on the package; follow it when it differs.
The seeding method
- Chop the chocolate or use callets, and set aside about a quarter.
- Melt the rest in a bowl over barely simmering water or in short bursts in the microwave, to the melting temperature.
- Stir in the reserved chocolate a little at a time. It brings stable crystals and cools the mixture.
- Keep stirring until the chocolate reaches the working temperature. Remove any pieces that have not melted.
The tabling method
Pour about two thirds of the melted chocolate onto a clean, dry marble or granite slab. Spread and fold it with a spatula until it thickens and reaches the cooling temperature, then scrape it back into the warm chocolate and stir to the working temperature.
Example
To temper 1 pound (16 oz) of dark chocolate by seeding:
- Melt 12 oz to about 118 °F
- Add 4 oz of chopped chocolate
- Stir until it reaches 88 to 90 °F, then test
Testing and fixing
Dip a spoon or knife tip and leave it at cool room temperature. Good temper sets glossy in about 5 minutes. If it stays soft or sets streaky, warm the chocolate back up a little and add more seed. If the chocolate becomes too thick while you work, warm it by a degree or two with a hair dryer, never above the working temperature.
Tips
- Keep water and steam away: a single drop can make chocolate seize.
- Use an instant-read or infrared thermometer; guessing rarely works.
- Work in a cool room, ideally 64 to 70 °F.
- Candy coating, sold as compound or melting wafers, uses other fats and needs no tempering.