The two measurements
You need a soft tape measure and a bra without padding, or no bra.
- Underbust (band): measure snugly around your ribcage, directly under your bust, keeping the tape level and exhaling.
- Bust: measure loosely around the fullest part of your bust, with the tape level across your back.
How the size is calculated
- Band size: round the underbust to the nearest even number of inches. A 31.5-inch underbust becomes a 32 band.
- Cup size: subtract the band from the bust. Each inch is one cup size: 1 in = A, 2 in = B, 3 in = C, 4 in = D, 5 in = DD.
Worked example
Your underbust is 32 in and your bust is 36 in.
- Band: 32.
- Difference: 36 − 32 = 4 in: D cup.
- Your starting size is 32D.
- In European sizing the same label is a 70D.
Cup letters in the US and UK
| Bust minus band | US | UK |
|---|---|---|
| 1 in | A | A |
| 2 in | B | B |
| 3 in | C | C |
| 4 in | D | D |
| 5 in | DD (E) | DD |
| 6 in | DDD (F) | E |
| 7 in | G | F |
| 8 in | H | FF |
| 9 in | I | G |
Sister sizes
Cup letters are relative to the band. Going down one band and up one cup keeps a similar cup volume: 34C, 32D and 36B are sister sizes. If a band rides up but the cups fit, try one band smaller and one cup larger.
Why sizes vary
There is no single standard. Some US brands still use the old "+4" method, which adds 4 or 5 inches to the underbust for the band. It gives a larger band and smaller cup letter: the same person might be a 32D by the modern method and a 36A by the old one. That is why fit matters more than the label.
Checking the fit
- The band should be level and snug on the loosest hook, so you can tighten it as it stretches.
- The center panel should lie flat against your breastbone.
- The cups should contain the breast without gaps or spilling.
- The straps should carry only a small part of the support; most comes from the band.